Tag Archives: alterations

Custom Lace Wedding Gowns

Lace Wedding Gowns are really on trend this year and with that in mind, I’d like to share my process for a custom lace gown that I  made recently for a New Year’s Eve wedding.

After consulting with the client, we decided on an ivory beaded Alencon lace re-embroidered with gold thread. The base was a 40mme silk charmeuse, lined in silk habotai. I like to prepare a fabric “sketch” for the client so she can see how the fabrics look and feel together.

Fabric "Sketch"

Fabric “Sketch”

I had to tea dye the English netting to match the ivory of the lace. Shown here are samples of the dyed netting.

Tea-dyed netting

Tea-dyed netting

I used muslin for the toile which worked perfectly for the silk but the lace was so stretchy that I ended up taking it in twice to get the “va-va-voom” fit that the bride desired.

Fitting Toile

Fitting Toile

First, I made the silk sheath and fit it exactly to the bride’s body. We also made sure the neckline was just as we wanted.

Front View of the silk sheath

Front View of the silk sheath

Back View of silk sheath

Back View of silk sheath

The bride wanted the necklines as low as possible but we also had to fit her undergarment.

Next, we added the lace over the silk sheath. This is where I took in the lace twice to get a really close fit.

Lace over silk sheath

Lace over silk sheath

Once I got the fit we wanted, I could finish off the neckline and sleeves.

Close-up of neckline

Close-up of neckline

Then the fun part ~ placing the lace on the skirt of the gown! Here’s the “sketch” with the happy bride. I ended up changing it somewhat in the final so that the design was balanced. It was not a symmetrical lace so it had to look balanced as opposed to symmetrical.

First Fit of the skirt with lace pinned onAnd here is the finished gown!

Front View of gownBack View of gownclose-up of sleeve detail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wedding Gown Alterations: Beadwork

Wedding season is upon us and if you are one of the many brides who got engaged over the December holidays, you are (hopefully) looking for your wedding gown.

If you are like most brides, you will need some kind of alteration to the gown. Like all clothing, dresses come in basic sizes and then must be tailored to fit an individual body. Almost every gown needs at least a bustle; most need to be hemmed. Maybe you need the waist nipped in a bit or the darts adjusted. All of these are pretty standard alterations and add  to the cost of the gown.

If your dress has beadwork, that adds even more to the cost of the alterations. That’s because the beading has to be removed, either by breaking the beads or tying them off, before the seam can be sewn. Whiskeytown 019

On the dress shown, I had to remove the beads from around the seams and  tie them off so that I could reuse the beads. Yes, the dress came with the little package of extra beads but there are never enough to complete an alteration. If you are lucky enough to receive extra beads with the gowns ~ they don’t all come with them ~ there are just enough to do minor repairs.

 

After the new seams are sewn, I like to check the fit on the bride before replacing the beadwork.  I don’t want to have to re-do the alteration if the bride wants it “just a little tighter”.

Once the fit is approved by the bride, I replace the beads. The beads are all sewn on by hand, trying to copy the exact design. This dress’ beads were a pretty easy pattern to copy. Some can get pretty complicated and require more time to sew.

Here is the completed gown. I sewed the beads on by hand, copying the exact pattern of the beadwork.

Here is the completed gown. I sewed the beads on by hand, copying the exact pattern of the beadwork.

If you are a bride who likes “bling” on the dress, make sure your budget will allow for the cost of the dress and the alterations.

 

 

 

 

Bridal Fairs

I participate in one bridal fair every year, in January and that pretty much jump starts my bridal business for the year.  Oh, I also get a lot of referrals and internet business but the bridal fair is a great way to meet brides-to-be in person and show them what you can do for them.

In our area, there are only two fairs a year so it’s not like there’s a big choice but if brides want the “one stop shopping” experience, bridal fairs are the way to go. You can meet vendors and see if you have a rapport with them. You can see pictures or samples of what they do. You can taste samples of what they do (my favorite part) and you’ll leave the fair with lots of ideas.

I pretty much let my work speak for itself. I drape my table with fabric samples and my paper portfolio. I dress my mannequins with samples of my workmanship. And, of course, I’m there to answer their questions and concerns.

One question I get asked a lot is, of course, how much can a bride expect to pay for alterations. Unfortunately, that is something I can’t answer without seeing the gown on the bride.  Because every dress has such different construction and design, each dress must be priced individually.

Some brides only need a hem and a bustle; some, especially petite and plus-sized brides, need more work. Just remember that alterations are priced individually so a hem, a bustle, dart alterations, taking in (or letting out) a bodice are all separate prices. So the more alterations you need, the more it will cost. This is especially important to keep in mind when you are buying a sample dress. It may be a good price initially but if it doesn’t fit you, you will sometimes spend more on alterations than you did on the dress.

For more FAQ’s about bridal gown alterations, check my next segment!

 

 

 

Ideas for Winter Weddings

A long-sleeved vintage gown is perfect for our winters here in Northern California

A long-sleeved vintage gown is perfect for a winter wedding here in Northern California

When most people think of wedding season, they think of Spring: April, May and of course, June. A new beginning, freshness, and spring colors all stimulate the bride’s imagination. Flower garden colors are the most traditional: greens and yellows, lavenders and pinks. Baby blues and silvery grays fill out the color palette for the latest trends.

Here are a few of the colors I worked with for the Spring 2013 Bridesmaids.

As I come up for air after finishing the July and August weddings, I realize that wedding season is truly year-round any more. I worked on just as many wedding gowns for September as I did for June, if not more. And while I only have a smattering of dress alterations for October and November, I have several for December, one of which is a complex custom design which will take many hours of fit and construction.

I’ve often wondered why more brides don’t opt for winter weddings in Northern California. It’s so hot here in the summer. Our mild winters are well-suited for even outdoor events and I love Fall and Winter colors: burgundy and emerald green, brown and sage, copper and deep yellow. Think of the possibilities! An outdoor wedding with the Fall leaves changing in the background. An indoor wedding with a snow theme. We are even close enough to snow so that the bride and groom could get pictures with a wintery background. And for the more formal weddings, black and white are still very much on trend and look great in the winter with silver or red accents.

As for the wedding gown, most gowns are really more comfortable in cooler weather. Steering away from the lightweight chiffon and crepe dresses, you would want to stick to the heavier satins and brocades. Even an organza over satin would work. And lace works for every season.

If you find a strapless gown that you love, think about having sleeves added. Pictured below is a gown with added lace sleeves for a July wedding. I’m adding long organza sleeves with satin and bead work on the edges of the pointed wrist to a strapless gown for the end of September. It will be finished next week and  I’ll post the pics after the wedding.  A professional alterationist will be able to add sleeves to just about any design.

Joy ~ After 003

Lace sleeves and sash added to a crepe georgette Grecian style gown.

 

For a really dramatic look, how about a cape, maybe in red, for an Old English look? Or lace, instead of a veil! The possibilities are endless!

I will say, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day are very popular for weddings. After all, most of us have the time off work and if it’s close to a weekend, it is a great time to get the family and friends together. If I had to choose between watching football and going to a wedding, guess which one I would choose?